Choose tank types and site them
Tanks are heavy, long-lived and hard to move. Their position decides water pressure, water quality and freezing risk.
How
- Pick an opaque, covered tank with screened vents. The Texas manual says opaque tanks inhibit algae and screened vents discourage mosquitoes.
- Use only tanks made for drinking water on the potable line, and never a tank that has held toxic materials (Texas manual).
- Site tanks as high as practical to reduce pumping, but below the lowest downspout inlet for rainwater. Every 10.2 m of height gives about 1 bar (the 2.31 ft per psi relation used in pump hydraulics).
- Build a stable, level pad. Water weighs about 1 kg per litre; the Texas manual notes a 1,500 US gallon tank weighs about 5,600 kg (12,400 lb). A structural engineer should check raised stands.
- Keep tanks out of septic drainfields and, for underground tanks, at least 15 m (50 ft) from animal stables or treated wastewater application (Texas manual).
- Shade tanks in hot climates and protect pipes and fittings from frost in cold ones. Leave access for cleaning and desludging.
- Keep stored water cool. Legionella bacteria multiply between 20 and 45 °C (HSE), and CDC names 25 to 45 °C as the most favourable range. Shade, bury or insulate tanks in hot climates.
Safety: A full tank stand that fails can kill. Never improvise a stand from untested materials.
Do these first
Sources
- The Texas Manual on Rainwater Harvesting, 3rd edition. Texas Water Development Board, accessed 2026-11
- 8.06: Power Requirements (Irrigation Systems Management). LibreTexts Workforce, accessed 2026-11
- Managing legionella in hot and cold water systems. UK Health and Safety Executive, accessed 2026-11
- Legionella control toolkit: potable water systems module. US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), accessed 2026-11